Calamares with Atchara

Place the julienned green papaya in a large bowl and sprinkle with 1 tbsp salt. Toss well and let it rest for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, squeeze out the excess liquid and rinse once under cold water to remove the salt. Set aside.

In a small saucepan, combine vinegar, sugar, garlic, ginger, and optional chili. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring until sugar dissolves completely. Turn off heat and let cool slightly.

Place the squeezed papaya and julienned carrot in a clean jar or bowl. Pour the warm vinegar mixture over them. Let it cool completely, then refrigerate. This is best prepared a day ahead for deeper flavor.

Clean the squid: pull the head and tentacles gently, remove the quill (transparent cartilage) from the body, and discard the internal organs. Rinse the tubes and tentacles thoroughly. Slice the squid tubes into 1/2-inch (1.25 cm) rings. Pat the rings and tentacles dry with paper towels.

In a bowl, season the squid rings with salt and black pepper. In another bowl, whisk the eggs. In a third bowl, combine flour and cornstarch. Dip each squid ring first into the egg mixture, then dredge in the flour-cornstarch mixture, shaking off any excess.

In a deep pan or wok, heat oil over medium-high heat. To test, drop a bit of flour mixture into the oil; if it sizzles immediately, it's ready. The oil should be about 350°F (175°C).

Fry the squid rings in batches (do not overcrowd the pan) for about 2 minutes, until golden brown and crisp. Use a slotted spoon to transfer to a plate lined with paper towels. Continue with the remaining pieces.

In a small bowl, combine vinegar, crushed garlic, black pepper, and salt. Stir well. This classic sawsawan is meant to be tangy and slightly peppery.

Arrange crispy calamares on a serving platter. Serve with a side of atchara and the vinegar dipping sauce. Enjoy while hot!