Appetizer
Fromage de chèvre cendré
About this dish
Fromage de chèvre cendré is a classic French goat cheese rolled in ash, delivering a creamy, tangy center with a delicate finish. Perfect for a simple cheese board or a warm salad, this homemade version captures the rustic charm of the Loire Valley.
Claire Dubois shares her time-tested technique for a velvety texture and that signature ashy coat.
Ingredients
UK and US measurements are both included for every recipe.
Goat milk
dairy4 liters
Imperial measurement: 1 gallon
Mesophilic starter
other1/4 tsp
Liquid rennet
other4 drops
Salt
seasoning1 tsp
Vegetable ash
other2 tbsp
Method
Heat the milk
PT10MGently warm the goat milk to 22°C (72°F) in a large stainless-steel pot. Do not overheat.
Add starter and rennet
PT12HSprinkle the mesophilic starter culture evenly over the milk surface. Wait 2 minutes, then stir gently for 30 seconds. Add the liquid rennet diluted in 2 tbsp cold water and stir with an upward lifting motion for 30 seconds. Cover and let sit at room temperature (22°C) for 12 hours until the curd sets like firm yogurt.
Cut the curd
PT10MGently cut the curd into 1-inch (2.5 cm) cubes using a long knife. Let the curds rest for 5 minutes to expel whey.
Ladle into molds
PT6HLine perforated cheese molds with cheesecloth. Ladle the curd into the molds, filling to the top. Let drain at room temperature for 6 hours, turning the cheeses once after 3 hours.
Salt and ash
PT10MRemove the cheeses from the molds carefully. Rub each cheese lightly with salt, then roll in the vegetable ash until evenly coated.
Age the cheese
PT48HPlace the ash-coated cheeses on a drying mat or cheese mat in a humid environment (about 85% humidity) at 10°C (50°F). Age for 1 to 2 days per side, turning daily, until a thin bloomy rind develops and the center is creamy.
Wrap and store
PT5MWrap each cheese in cheese paper or wax paper and refrigerate. Enjoy within 1 week.
Equipment
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Nutrition facts
Tips
- Always use non-iodized salt, iodized salt can inhibit the beneficial bacteria that give the cheese its tang.
- If you can't find food-grade vegetable ash, you can use activated charcoal powder from health food stores—it's the same thing.
- The aging environment matters: a plastic storage box with a lid and slightly damp paper towels helps maintain humidity.
- Goat cheese often takes longer to drain than cow's milk cheese—don't rush it or the texture will be too wet.
Serving suggestions
- Serve at room temperature on a cheese board with crusty bread, fresh figs, or a drizzle of honey. Pair it with a dry white wine from the Loire Valley, like Sancerre.
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Recipe by
Claire Dubois
Specialises in French cuisineClaire is a former lawyer who now bakes croissants at 4am. She says pastry saved her soul and ruined her sleep schedule.
Describe yourself in three words: Tired but joyful, buttery hands.