Poh Pia Tod: Crispy Thai Spring Rolls with Sweet Chili Dip

Soak the glass noodles in warm water for 10 minutes until softened, then drain and cut into shorter lengths (about 3 inches).

Heat a wok or large skillet over medium-high heat. Add a splash of oil and stir-fry the garlic and shallots until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the ground pork (if using) and cook until browned, breaking it up. If omitting pork, skip this step and gently fry the aromatics.

Add the carrot and napa cabbage, and stir-fry for 2-3 minutes until slightly wilted. Add the bean sprouts, cooked glass noodles, oyster sauce, soy sauce, sugar, and white pepper. Toss everything together, then remove from heat and stir in the cilantro.

Transfer the filling to a large plate or tray and spread it out to cool completely. The filling must be cool before wrapping; otherwise, it will make the wrappers tacky and prone to tearing.

Lay one spring roll wrapper on a dry surface with a corner pointing toward you. Place about 2 tablespoons of filling near the bottom corner. Fold the bottom corner over the filling, tuck it in, and roll halfway. Fold in the left and right corners, then continue rolling. Brush a little beaten egg on the top corner to seal. Repeat with remaining wrappers and filling.

In a deep pot or wok, heat about 2 inches of oil to 350°F (175°C). Fry the spring rolls in batches (don't overcrowd) for 3-4 minutes, turning occasionally, until they turn pale golden and float. Remove and drain on a wire rack. Let them cool for at least 10 minutes. This step sets the wrapper so it won't burst during the final fry.

Increase the oil temperature to 375°F (190°C). Fry the rolls again, in batches, for 2-3 minutes until they turn deep golden brown and become shatteringly crisp. Drain on paper towels.

Serve the spring rolls hot, whole or sliced in half, with Thai sweet chili sauce for dipping and extra cilantro for garnish.