Vegan Banh Mi with Seitan and Hoisin Sauce

In a mixing bowl, combine the rice vinegar, sugar, and a pinch of salt. Stir until the sugar dissolves. Add the carrot and daikon matchsticks and toss to coat. Let them sit at room temperature while you prepare the rest, at least 15 minutes. They will soften slightly and turn tangy-sweet, like a good rumor.

In a small bowl, whisk together the hoisin sauce, soy sauce, and maple syrup. Set aside. This glaze is the quiet charmer of the sandwich; it should be thick enough to cling to the seitan without running off.

Heat the vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the seitan strips in a single layer and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, turning occasionally, until they are golden brown on several sides. If your pan is crowded, work in batches so the seitan sears instead of steaming.

Reduce the heat to medium-low and pour the hoisin mixture over the seared seitan. Stir gently to coat every strip. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until the sauce thickens, bubbles, and lacquers the seitan. Remove from heat and set aside. Do not walk away; hoisin likes to go from glossy to burnt in a blink.

While the seitan rests, slice the baguettes lengthwise without cutting all the way through. Pull out some of the soft interior crumb to make room for the fillings, leaving a sturdy shell. Toast the cut sides in a dry skillet or under a broiler for 1 to 2 minutes, until lightly crisp. This keeps the bread from going soggy.

Spread a thin layer of vegan mayonnaise on the bottom half of each baguette, if using. Layer with cucumber spears, then the glazed seitan, then a generous tangle of pickled carrot and daikon. Tuck in jalapeño slices and cilantro sprigs. Finish with a squeeze of lime and an extra drizzle of hoisin if you like. Close the sandwiches, press gently, and serve immediately.