Bún Thịt Nướng: Vietnamese Grilled Pork Vermicelli

In a large bowl, stir together the minced shallots, garlic, lemongrass, 3 tbsp fish sauce, 2 tbsp sugar, 2 tbsp neutral oil and 1/2 tsp black pepper. Add the thinly sliced pork and turn with your hands or tongs until every piece is coated. Cover and let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes, or refrigerate up to 4 hours. If you have time, 2 hours in the fridge gives a deeper flavour.

Combine the carrot and daikon matchsticks with 3 tbsp rice vinegar, 1 tbsp sugar and a pinch of salt in a small bowl. Add enough water to just cover, then let sit while you cook. This keeps for 3 to 4 days covered in the refrigerator.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the rice vermicelli and cook until just tender, usually 4 to 5 minutes. Drain and rinse briefly with cool water to stop the cooking, then shake dry. Keep at room temperature or refrigerate lightly oiled if not using right away.

In a small bowl, whisk together 3 tbsp fish sauce, 2 tbsp sugar, 3 tbsp fresh lime juice and 2 tbsp water until the sugar dissolves. Stir in 1 minced garlic clove and, if you like heat, 1 minced red Thai chili. Taste and adjust: it should lead with salty-sweet and finish with enough lime to make it bracing but not sour.

Heat a grill or broiler to high and lightly oil the grates or a ridged skillet. Grill the pork slices in a single layer, without crowding, for about 3 to 4 minutes per side until browned at the edges and cooked through, with a little char in spots. If working on the stovetop, use a heavy skillet over medium-high heat and cook in batches for even browning.

If the noodles were chilled, return them to a pot of boiling water for 10 seconds and drain well, or warm briefly in the microwave. You want them tender but not hot enough to wilt the fresh herbs and lettuce.

Layer a bed of lettuce and sliced cucumber in each bowl. Add a portion of rice vermicelli, then the warm grilled pork. Finish with a tangle of pickled carrot and daikon, fresh mint and cilantro, and crushed peanuts. Serve with nước chấm at the table and extra lime wedges.