Lahpet Yay with Bruneian Rice Milk and Ajugose

Rinse the jasmine rice under cold water until the water runs mostly clear. Transfer to a bowl, cover with 400 ml (1 2/3 cups) of the water, and let soak for 15 minutes to soften.

Drain the soaked rice, discarding the soaking water. Add the rice to a blender with the remaining 400 ml (1 2/3 cups) fresh water. Blend on high for 2 minutes until creamy and opaque. Pour through a fine-mesh strainer into a saucepan.

If using ajugose stems, lightly crush them with the back of a knife and add to the rice milk in the saucepan. Bring to a gentle simmer over low heat, stirring often. Simmer for 5 minutes, then remove from heat and let steep for 5 more minutes. Strain out the stems and discard.

Stir in the sea salt and tamarind paste, if using. Taste — it should be subtly sweet, faintly saline, and clean. Transfer to a covered jar and refrigerate until cold, about 10 minutes while you prepare the lahpet.

Heat the peanut oil in a small pan over medium-low. Add the sliced garlic and fry gently until pale gold and fragrant, about 2 minutes. Scoop out half the garlic and oil for garnish. Add the fermented tea leaves to the pan and toss for 30 seconds, just to warm and soften them without cooking away the tang.

Fill two chilled glasses two-thirds full with the cold rice milk. Spoon the warm lahpet mixture over the top and let it settle. Drizzle with the reserved garlic oil, sprinkle with crushed peanuts, and pinch a little salt or tamarind over the surface. Drink or spoon immediately.